This is compared to retro-fit hydraulic roller lifters that can cost $450. Often the lifters may be worn and not serviceable but that’s okay because replacement lifters from Sealed-Powerare a pretty good deal at just under $150 for the set. The most important reason for using this vintage block is because it allows you to add a mild performance hydraulic roller camshaft while re-using the existing hydraulic roller lifters. Another advantage of these engines is they use a one-piece oil pan gasket that helps prevent oil leaks. At the very least, pull the rear cover and replace the one-piece rear main seal when you pull the pan off to inspect the bottom end. Rebuilding the short block will not be overly expensive but could put you in a position of spending almost as much as a brand new crate engine, so you have to do your homework and plan out the entire build. These engines used cast pistons which are not the best for high rpm, but with your daily-driver approach, cast pistons would work just fine. If you find a short block in decent shape and you can still see a cross-hatch pattern on the cylinder walls with no outrageous lip at the top of the ring travel, you might be able to get away with using this short block with perhaps the addition of a new set of rings. Let’s start with the short block and work out way up. The heads are easy to identify as they have a distinctive saw-tooth casting mark on the end of each head. These may be somewhat hard to find in complete condition, but what’ we’re emphasizing here is a combination of a one-piece rear main seal block with provisions for using a factory style hydraulic roller camshaft matched with a pair of iron Vortec heads. The best used engine combination to look for would be the Vortec small block used in 元1-equipped pickup trucks from 1996 through 1998 and all the way into 2002 in some vans. The reason you should look for a one-piece rear main seal engine is not just for the better rear main seal but because most of these engines came with a hydraulic roller camshaft. In the second half of the 1980’s – officially in 1986, Chevy converted small-blocks to a one-piece rear main seal which makes identifying these engines really easy. Jeff Smith: I’ve built more than my fair share of street-easy small block Chevys and one combination is a favorite. Do you have a recommendation for someplace to start? Thanks

I’d like to rebuild the engine by putting rings and bearings in it. I could just buy a Chevy crate engine but I’d like to do the work myself.

I will probably put headers on it, so except for a small Holley four-barrel carburetor and intake manifold, that’s about as wild as I want to get. The trans will be a TH-350 with a stock torque converter and whatever the stock gears are in the rear end. I want to build a mild, 350ci small-block Chevy for a ’77 Chevy pickup I’ll use as a daily driver.

Gm hot cam 350